Canal St. Martin

I have to say, I felt pretty cute today in my new linen dress and my animal print headband (très chic!) and a good hair day was an added bonus. Canal St. Martin was the agenda for the day. 

After breakfast at our Le Loir dans la Theire café, (noting the line around the corner for Breakfast in America), off we Metro’d to the 10^th, thanks to Rob and his crack sense of direction.  We hit Jardin Villemin almost right away, but only stayed a few minutes, I really didn’t have anything to write about at that point.  It was a community garden, “Paris style”, and reminded me a little of the community garden in Eugene – way cool.

Next, my good man directed us to the canal and I got very excited when I saw the bridge.  We walked over it three times during the course of the morning, and kissed every time, inspiring me to create a new rule.  Every time we’re on a bridge, it’s time for a kiss.

Rob was fascinated by the canal boat navigating the locks and his enthusiasm got me fascinated, too.  We leaned over that bridge, must have been almost a half hour total, watching the water fill up and the gates slowly opening to let the boat through, riding easily on the higher water.  I didn’t know that canal engineering dates back to before the Middle Ages.  Humans will find a way to travel any way we can, won’t we?

We sauntered along the canal on the Quai de Jemmapes, past the famous Hotel du Nord.  I didn’t think it was that big of a deal, I got a lot more excited about the urinoir, standing proudly, right in front of God and everybody right next to the canal.  I couldn’t resist taking a picture for you, as Rob walked quickly past.

Our destination was the patisserie, Du Pain et De Idees.  I read about it in Paris My Sweet and quite honestly, it was the motivation behind the whole trip to Canal St. Martin.  It didn’t disappoint.  We sat outside at an old wooden table and ate chaussons aux pommes, (a pocket full of apples), and escargot crème et fruits rouges, (a swirly pastry with raspberries and cream cheese) and drank ice cold Diet Coke, (we are Americans after all.)  This may be one of the best patisseries in the world.

Fortified by sugar and fat, we made our way toward our park destination and for our “creating time.”  We passed Hôpital Saint-Louis.  This was a surprise.  “We’re not in Alta Bates anymore, Dorothy.”

Can you believe this is a hospital?  Maybe it would even be a little more bearable to be sick in Paris.  (maybe not.)  We stayed for a little while, but then I saw a man in scrubs and I remembered that we were in a hospital, not just another pretty park, and the people sitting out here were probably sad and worried about their sick loved one, and I got a little sad, too and wanted to go.

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

I’m not sure I like it here.  In fact, I don’t like it here.  It just has a low rent feeling, kind of dirty and unkempt.  I could be in a park in Oakland.  Let’s just say, Parc des Buttes Chaumont will not be included as one of the chapters in my future book of the charming parks and squares of Paris.  The Parisians seem to like it though; I’ve seen several of them sprawled out on the weed strewn grass.  I’ve also seen a lot of runners.  Maybe that is its main function.  The Jardin du Luxembourg it is not.

We’re sitting here, trying to “create”, but I’m getting that restless feeling that I want to be somewhere else.  We just heard the faint rumble of thunder and a decidedly wet drop is the sign that it is time to move on.  On our way back to the Metro, we saw this cool puppet show thing, but I’m still glad we’re going back home to the Marais.

 All in all, however, a very satisfying and cool adventure; it's good to see the edgier neighborhoods, too.